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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.